- #Olympus viewer 3 copy settings how to
- #Olympus viewer 3 copy settings manual
- #Olympus viewer 3 copy settings full
- #Olympus viewer 3 copy settings iso
- #Olympus viewer 3 copy settings plus
Shots and only a few insignificant highlights may then be sacrificed. Tend to keep to 0 EV exposure compensation for most
= On (the blinkies) so then can see what highlights might be sacrificed Turn it on when handing the camera to someone else to take my photo. = Off as for me it finds too many stray "faces" in scenery, I only may The auto review can be over-ridden by the shutter press anyway, so does Seconds, that's enough to get a quick idea of if the shot worked. Me with the Brightness boosted to +7, the auto dim set to 8 seconds andĬamera sleep set at 1 minute.
#Olympus viewer 3 copy settings manual
Resolution is needed for careful manual focus. Is used when I (rarely) play with my Nikon lenses, the VF-2 higher Underside of a mushroom and need a viewfinder angled up, Also the VF-2 Only used for really tricky situations like where I need to shoot the I use way way more than the VF-2 viewfinder. The Fn button is set to Exposure Lock that is sometimes used.
#Olympus viewer 3 copy settings full
To have the camera focus at half press and then meter at full press. Setting up the camera in the Custom Menus allow me I use the centre focus box only and always half press to focusĪnd hold then re-frame the image and complete the press to "stabilisation" which often gives very bad results.įor me it's always S-AF or maybe S-AF + MF for fine tuning or if inĭoubt. Turns off the usual sensor shift stabilisation and uses pixel shifting Improvement, but way better with video as the Pen line for video With an OIS switch is used then that will give about the same Possible and at 14mm about 1/3 second works. Hand-holding and no stabilisation at or above 1/300 second, for 14 mmĪbout 10x shutter time improvement so then at 150mm 1/30 second is That at (for M4/3 cameras) 150mm it should be safe to use Speed for hand-holding is 1/(35mm equivalent focal length). Hold true for normal folks, that is the lowest likely safe shutter To safe shutter speed shots, best to only turn it on when it is really I leave off most of the time as it does add a tiny amount of blur Process use unsharp mask sharpening to taste to suit the display or With mostĬameras I have Sharpness at minimum or very low (-1 for me at present) and then in post Default or high sharpness increases noise and adds edge halos thatĪre objectionable for very large prints or savage crops. Very large prints need noise to hide the fact that they may be Matters to pixel peepers, in printing it is not an issue, in fact Most of the time and have the upper limit at 1000 or 1250 forĮveryday use, then if in dim and difficult conditions I may set the limit to Some noise adds character to some images. It maybe would be OK at 3200 but only for B&W where That the E-PL1 is good up to 1600 ISO, above that the noise is tooīlotchy for me.
#Olympus viewer 3 copy settings iso
Which ISO is the maximum to use for general shooting. The trick is to do your own tests and see
The manual warns that for lowest noise use 100 butĢ00 has better dynamic range. The E-PL1 lowest ISO is 100, but theīase is truly 200. Tied in with noise control is the use of which ISO to use, the Painted look, particularly at higher ISO where the effect may beĪutomatically stronger. Image but it can cause smearing of detail and give faces and details a Is the usual processing effort made to try and reduce noise in the Reduction will add another 30 seconds for the dark frame, making 60 Be aware that taking say a 30 second shot the noise I set it to AutoĪnd that lets the dark frame subtraction cut in at 4 seconds and longer Pixels that can be subtracted from the first image to help make itĬleaner. Hopefully that generates the same or similar set of hot Is their name for dark frame subtraction, where another image of equalĮxposure time is taken just after the real image but taken with the Olympus has some confusing terminology for noise control.
#Olympus viewer 3 copy settings how to
Of the box, see how to turn it on here in my Comments page. Me it is verging on insane that Olympus defaults to no SCP display out Up it is necessary to get the SCP working (the Super Control Panel). Same on all Pens and OM-D so the list can be used for decisions on them Is based on what my E-PL1 does but the general settings are much the In extremeĬases I may also work on noise reduction, but that is rarer now. Image that might not directly produce a good print or display, I mightĬhoose to boost saturation a bit and alter the sharpening. In post process to the look that I want, it most likely will be an With jpeg is always to produce an image that can easily be fine tuned
#Olympus viewer 3 copy settings plus
Jpeg may have difficulties then I will shoot RAW plus jpeg. Less and loses very little over RAW shooting if the lighting and Usual aim is to use jpegs for most of the time, makes storage needs Instead of labelling this page as a "preferred settings" list, I would like to stress that it is my preferred settings, with explanations so you can pick and choose which parts you might use.
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